Hi guys! For many months I have struggled with supports to get the perfect 3D prints Recently I have started to experiment with different settings on my slicer and came out with great results supports easy to remove, with a smooth finish of the print! Back on topic: I normally use Slic3r, but decided to use ideaMaker to gcode a skull that was locking up slic3r.
It's a good package once you get around it's foibles and find where the detailed settings are concealed. It seemed to be lacking in respect to surrounding some structures for initial support.
However for ease of removal they are rather good. Also: something really obvious that I suspect doesn't occur to most people: Dual filament printing, but ONLY print the interface layer in a dissolveable filament, print the actual support in PLA. I've never found autogenerated support I liked. I'd rather just build it in.
One bit to remove with wire cutters, vs gritty mess everywhere?
Same for me. Plenty of ways to avoid the use of the slicer support feature when we design a part. If necessary split the part. Any manufacturing process has restriction, 3D printing too. I am amazed to see here the unnecessary complex parts requiring support that could be made simpler, better and without support.
Too many people think in term of appearance not functionality. In fact, a majority who have no technical background or experience, just learned to use a CAD package. I use PETG and due to its stringiness, elasticity, support is really a mess hard to remove. Sometimes I use the slicer support function, mainly to look how it will generate it, so I can include a simpler one. Auto slicers have the potential to be much nicer. Imagine one which follows object contours instead of space-filling with frilly peely stuff!
It's what I do by hand when I can't avoid large area overhangs. Get it right and it peels like a shell off an egg.
I do this kind of thing too, but following profile contours is definitely something I'm going to be figuring out how to easily do in blender from now on.
To be fair "Blender Can't" is almost always a userspace inadequacy, generally caused by a reliance on "better" software. Given how relatively trivial it was to do this even on a complex mesh; I am sure I will find places to do it in future, especially on much simpler mechanical objects. The concept of 'follows contour lines" is the most important takeaway concept here.
It's a good idea for 3d prints. I notice no instructions in your link, probably to conceal how much ugly hand-written python was required and how many times the boolean operator crashed.Thursday, October 10, After recieved my Elegoo Mars machine a few months ago I have been using the ChiTuBox slicer to generate supports and slice files to print on that machine.
I tried to use the automatic supports generation feature in ChiTuBox but I found that it often needed manual intervention in order to generate sufficient support structures, it would often only generate a small number of supports around the very base of an object, and I would often have to add a number of supports in order to get a successful print. PrusaSlicer was updated earlier this year, to support SLA type pre processing and slicing, including support generation, after the release of the Prusa SL1.
This got me wondering if using PrusaSlicer to generate the supports would be more robust than ChiTuBox and reduce the need for manual input on the support generation side. I chose a pair of models that I had previously printed using supports generated by ChiTuBox, but in both of these cases it took me a couple of iterations to get the supports good enough for a successful print.
I used PrusaSlicer in SLA mode which can be found through the configuration wizard and imported the models, I then made a couple of tweaks to the support options in the 'Print Settings' tab. Then in ChiTuBox I imported that file and sliced as normal, ensuring that the generated pad was flush with the print bed. Both of these models printed perfectly the first time, with no additional intervention from myself, the base of the Paladin figure is slightly sagged just where the very lower corner of the base starts, which is consistent with even the best prints that I've done with the ChiTuBox supports.
In the case of the Paladin model, the supports that PrusaSlicer generated also used significantly less plastic than the ChiTuBox generated supports, ChiTuBox would generate supports across the entire width of the base, whereas PrusaSlicer just generated supports at the bottom corner of the base.
The PrusaSlicer supports also seem to be more flexible in terms of the angles that it is willing to use in order to put the end point of the support where it needs to be, like in the case of the top of the shield of the Paladin and on the sword.
The two completed models, the Terminator on the left and the Paladin on the right. So in conclusion I think that I will be using PrusaSlicer from now on to generate my support structures, as there is no manual intervention required and it uses less plastic.
I will of course update this blog if I find any more salient points on this topic. Post a Comment. Popular Posts Sunday, July 07, It has been circulating around for a couple of weeks already so if you are our hardcore fan, you have already tested it.
And even though the SVLH is the star of the show today, reworked, faster, better and easier to remove supports made it to this release too. A paper by Pandey, Reddy and Dhand gives an extensive overview of algorithms to vary the layer height to limit the surface roughness, Florens Wasserfall integrated automatic layer height into his experimental Slic3r in the year as a part of his diploma thesis and Autodesk has shown their flavour of the variable layer height algorithm during the last year.
You may ask why you need such a thing. The use case is simple. With 0. If we print him at 0. Perfect control with accurate shader layer visualization before slicing. Only if there would be a way how to combine these two, right? There is now! Just select the object in the Plater tab and hit Layer Editing in the top menu. By default, the green parts will be set to 0. The smoothing is very important and is not present in any other FFF slicing software.
Without it, the layer height jump is very visible and defeats the effect of smoother surfaces. Take a look at the video we prepared to show off the capabilities. The tweaked g-code took 2 hours and 20 minutes, shaving the print time by 1 hour 25 minutes with the same result! Simplify3D can emulate this with multiple processes, tedious manual setup and hideous visible jumps in layer height.
Same applies in vanilla Slic3r with Layer option under object settings. I am very thrilled we were able to produce the first practical solution for FFF 3D printers with such stunning results. New supports are not nearly as exciting, but everyday bread and butter of 3D printing.
Most of the updates happened under the hood. This also made it more stable eliminating instances when on some object support generating never finished. Supports are now generated on the grid, which also saves up time and significantly reduces the final g-code file size. Little work on parallelization was also done in this release but remains the main focus for the next release.
It only takes a minute to sign up. What are the best settings for Ultimaker Cura to have support material that's easy to remove for my Anet A8. I have printed an object with two different spools of PLA same manufacturer just different color.
Thee black print seems like it has a little over-extrusion while the grey print has some under-extrusion artifacts despite the higher printing temperature. The grey support was really hard to remove and looks super messy the black one not so much Could it be that the material is so much different despite same manufacturer?
The black one seems to flow much better than the grey one. It's rather tiny that makes printing it somewhat awkward The support came off much better, the under-extrusion is minimal on the layers however for some reason the top layer does get messed up with open spots and the little nob at the corner was just a a mere stringy stumb that fell off instantly and the walls of the holes came out spongy while the layers of the ring and the long side are smooth and fine Cura has some settings for the support structure which may help.
Somewhere in the full Preferences menu is a setting for "gap at top" or equivalent wording. If you increase that gap slightly, the support material will be less strongly bonded to the part. Be careful, since a huge gap could lead to bridging problems. A filament is a solid that turns into a highly viscous fluid under heating and the more you heat it, the less viscous it gets. However, it also has a very high surface tension, which means, that as it extrudes and if it is not pressed down immediately, then the filament goop will thin as the head moves, resulting in under extrusion and stringiness.
Print temperatures from manufacturers have to be seen with a grain of salt, as the measurements are calibrated to their test printer, which is not your printer.
In a related manner, make sure that the minimum layer time is set to at about 5 to 10 seconds, which allows the single tip to cool down a little and get better prints.
PrusaSlicer hard to remove supports
The part you want to print is quite complicated with the different Z-heights to start at. It might be possible to increase printability by including "sacrifice blocks" of material about 1 or 2 layer heights below the print, pretty much including a support structure into the print design itself.The most of newcomers in the 3D printing world already know that except the 3D printer, they will need to obtain 3D models on the internet or create their own in a 3D modeling program.
Creating a properly tuned G-code is an essential operation which is crucial for the quality and trouble-free printing. You can set up almost anything in the slicing software, and every detail can have a significant impact on the printing result. But do not worry! Basic slicing is very easy, and you can handle it without any problems with our PrusaControl software. PrusaControl will not allow you to fiddle around and everything is pretty straightforward.
But sooner or later you might feel limited. And this is the time for Slic3r Prusa Edition. Slic3r PE is based on original Slic3r. There are many boxes with the settings. An inexperienced user might wreak a disaster just by unchecking seemingly unimportant button. But once you puzzle out all the options, you will love it. You just have to overcome the first difficulties. This article should help you with that. Slic3r spread among users quickly.
When Josef Prusa was looking for a leading slicing software for our printers the choice fell on Slic3r. It is open-source, powerful, decent software. We needed to make changes to the software, and the changes had to be done asap. We also needed to add more features. At this point the co-operation with the detached original Slic3r team was unsustainable.
The bottom line is that Prusa Research decided to establish an offshoot. Slic3r Prusa Edition was released in November — read more about the launch here.
Meet our Slic3r guys! The team is still growing. And even though they have gone a long way and made so many improvements, there are still many ideas to work in. They are programming under one roof with all the Prusa Research folks in our new headquarter.
The best way how to get the Slic3r Prusa Edition on Windows is to install it together with the drivers for our printers. When installing on MAC and Linux the profiles are not installed automatically. Backup your old profiles before you proceed. Most of the time you will use just Plater and Print Settings tab. In Filament settings, you can specialize values for the filament — temperatures, cooling, etc.
We tested all the profiles and we are using them regularly, so we believe you will not have to change anything unless you want to experiment. The same is true for Printer setting — nozzle diameter, retractions etc.When it comes to using your favourite toy to print some nice things we all need to use certain programs to generate the so called " G-Code ".
There are plenty of them around but today I will only focus on Slic3r as it is one of the most used programs for the job. You ever had the problem that your extruder is chewing a nice C into your filament, especially somewhere in the middle of the print? Or your printer is perfectly calibrated in the hardware and firmware but your prints never match the dimensions of the part?
Maybe you printer works just fine but certain things suffer from drooping? Like when printing small parts that loose form while you print? Any of that usually comes down to the often confusing settings in Slic3r, so I will try to show you where you have to be careful, what settings cause problems and so on. Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Before we even start messing finetuning we should assume the printer hardware is calibrated and the same is true for the firmware. For this tutorial I will assume a 0. But the basics behind are the same and you will know after reading this Instructable how to get proper prints using Slic3r.
I know there are certain file Slic3r simply does not slice right and some might require to use a different slicer for the job - this is not part of the Instructable. One thing that Slicer is known be less than perfect is the problem of extrusion widths.Prusa Slicer Setup and First Look
As they also mess with calibrations we fix that now. By default all settings are set to "0" and Slicer sometimes creates filling lines with 1. This usually causes extreme amounts of plastic to be used during bridging and solid fills. The overlap can be adjusted if you infill does not always fuse with the outer lines or simply looks too short. The bridge flow rate is very important for the chewing "C" effect - I will come back to it. So adjust the above settings according to your nozzle diameter.
If you not already have some nice test objects fixed dimensions you can download a lot calibration models on Thingiverse. It is best to start with something simple and fast to print like a 20mm cube with slim walls and bottom. Use a slow speed to print it out and measure the outside dimensions. Calipers work great for this, a ruler might not be accurate enough If the m cube turns out to be over 20mm on the outside and walls are thicker too it means you extrude too much filament.
I measured the filament to be 2.
So if your walls are too thick and the outside dimensions to big too you reduce the multiplier. It is best to this in little steps, let's say from the above 1. After each change you do a test print again and measure. Once 20mm are reached on your object to match the 3D model you are good to go. If you lines are too thin or the dimensions slightly too short you can incease the multiplier a bit.
In this section we can also adjust the settings for our heated print bed if we have one. ABS and other plastics won't bond to cold surfaces well but they also like to warp during the cooling. Find a temp that allows good bonding but not as strong so you always have dismantle all to put the bed into the freezer to get your part off. The temp for the following layers should be lower and set so your printing object won't warp and lift coners or worse.
That's done! Your parts should now come out with the right sizes and things that are meant to fit together will too. Nothing fancy here.
The " Layer height " defines how fine the object will be printed, in how many slices.Is there a manual for Prusa Slicer? Is there a tutorial? I've been using it for the three weeks I've had my MK3S, and it's pretty intuitive, but I often worry that I'm missing out on the coolest features. I could really use a manual too. I'm not finding a lot of helpful info on how to use Prusa Slicer. Even stuff that seems like it should be very simple has me stumped.
The Slic3r manual can help you learn some of the tricks since Prusa is copying Slic3r essentials. This manual was sponsored by. Manual is on its way, but the devs are still adding tons of new features, so it will take some time. As soon as some parts are published I will add them here.
Considering all the changes Team Prusa have made to Slic3r base recently, this was probably a prudent choice. A manual more than a few weeks old would be very out of date by now. Sounds like the next PrusaSlicer update is going to be a big one. I'm looking forward to it.
Best Support Settings for 3D Printing
It's now and still no manual. Seriously I keep hearing about all these cool things the slicer can do but have no idea how to do most of them.
I would also appreciate a manual for those of us who are starting, having more control of what we do. Yeah, I shouldn't have to pay a 3rd party to get instructions for Prusa Slicer. I mean, who releases software without a help file? You ever going to follow through on this?
Honestly, releasing your work in progress is way better than just leaving us hanging.